Every time I dipped my kayak paddle into the water of Salt River Bay National Historic Park in St. Croix, USVI, swirls of dinoflagellates danced under the stars. I teased my fingers through the strands of blue and waited for the excursion leader to give us permission to jump in. "Just stay away from the mangrove trees," he said, warning us of the potential presence of lion fish. Logan steadied the kayak for me to slide into the warm, salty bay. Despite sharing the space with several other kayakers, this moment at last felt like mine--wrapped in darkness, I maneuvered through the water, and the sea glittered as I swam.